Snares n' Traps
A simple snare (Figure 8-5) consists of a noose placed over a trail or den hole and attached to a firmly planted stake.
If the noose is some type of cordage placed upright on a game trail, use small twigs or blades of grass to hold it up. Filaments
from spider webs are excellent for holding nooses open. Make sure the noose is large enough to pass freely over the animal's
head. As the animal continues to move, the noose tightens around its neck. The more the animal struggles, the tighter the
noose gets. This type of snare usually does not kill the animal. If you use cordage, it may loosen enough to slip off the
animal's neck. Wire is therefore the best choice for a simple snare.
Use a drag noose on an animal run (Figure 8-6). Place forked sticks on either side of the run and lay a sturdy cross member
across them. Tie the noose to the cross member and hang it at a height above the animal's head. (Nooses designed to catch
by the head should never be low enough for the prey to step into with a foot.) As the noose tightens around the animal's neck,
the animal pulls the cross member from the forked sticks and drags it along. The surrounding vegetation quickly catches the
cross member and the animal becomes entangled.
A twitch-up is a supple sapling, which, when bent over and secured with a triggering device, will provide power to a variety
of snares. Select a hardwood sapling along the trail. A twitch-up will work much faster and with more force if you remove
all the branches and foliage.
A simple twitch-up snare uses two forked sticks, each with a long and short leg (Figure 8-7). Bend the twitch-up and mark
the trail below it. Drive the long leg of one forked stick firmly into the ground at that point. Ensure the cut on the short
leg of this stick is parallel to the ground. Tie the long leg of the remaining forked stick to a piece of cordage secured
to the twitch-up. Cut the short leg so that it catches on the short leg of the other forked stick. Extend a noose over the
trail. Set the trap by bending the twitch-up and engaging the short legs of the forked sticks. When an animal catches its
head in the noose, it pulls the forked sticks apart, allowing the twitch-up to spring up and hang the prey.
Note: Do not use green sticks for the trigger. The sap that oozes out could glue them together.
A squirrel pole is a long pole placed against a tree in an area showing a lot of squirrel activity (Figure 8-8). Place
several wire nooses along the top and sides of the pole so that a squirrel trying to go up or down the pole will have to pass
through one or more of them. Position the nooses (5 to 6 centimeters in diameter) about 2.5 centimeters off the pole. Place
the top and bottom wire nooses 45 centimeters from the top and bottom of the pole to prevent the squirrel from getting its
feet on a solid surface. If this happens, the squirrel will chew through the wire. Squirrels are naturally curious. After
an initial period of caution, they will try to go up or down the pole and will get caught in a noose. The struggling animal
will soon fall from the pole and strangle. Other squirrels will soon follow and, in this way, you can catch several squirrels.
You can emplace multiple poles to increase the catch.
Squirrel Pole View #2
Ojibwa Bird Pole
An Ojibwa bird pole is a snare used by native Americans for centuries (Figure 8-9). To be effective, place it in a relatively
open area away from tall trees. For best results, pick a spot near feeding areas, dusting areas, or watering holes. Cut a
pole 1.8 to 2.1 meters long and trim away all limbs and foliage. Do not use resinous wood such as pine. Sharpen the upper
end to a point, then drill a small diameter hole 5 to 7.5 centimeters down from the top. Cut a small stick 10 to 15 centimeters
long and shape one end so that it will almost fit into the hole. This is the perch. Plant the long pole in the ground with
the pointed end up. Tie a small weight, about equal to the weight of the targeted species, to a length of cordage. Pass the
free end of the cordage through the hole, and tie a slip noose that covers the perch. Tie a single overhand knot in the cordage
and place the perch against the hole. Allow the cordage to slip through the hole until the overhand knot rests against the
pole and the top of the perch. The tension of the overhand knot against the pole and perch will hold the perch in position.
Spread the noose over the perch, ensuring it covers the perch and drapes over on both sides. Most birds prefer to rest on
something above ground and will land on the perch. As soon as the bird lands, the perch will fall, releasing the over-hand
knot and allowing the weight to drop. The noose will tighten around the bird's feet, capturing it. If the weight is too heavy,
it will cut the bird's feet off, allowing it to escape.
A noose stick or "noosing wand" is useful for capturing roosting birds or small mammals (Figure 8-10). It requires a patient
operator. This wand is more a weapon than a trap. It consists of a pole (as long as you can effectively handle) with a slip
noose of wire or stiff cordage at the small end. To catch an animal, you slip the noose over the neck of a roosting bird and
pull it tight. You can also place it over a den hole and hide in a nearby blind. When the animal emerges from the den, you
jerk the pole to tighten the noose and thus capture the animal. Carry a stout club to kill the prey.
Treadle Spring Snare
Use a treadle snare against small game on a trail (Figure 8-11). Dig a shallow hole in the trail. Then drive a forked stick
(fork down) into the ground on each side of the hole on the same side of the trail. Select two fairly straight sticks that
span the two forks. Position these two sticks so that their ends engage the forks. Place several sticks over the hole in the
trail by positioning one end over the lower horizontal stick and the other on the ground on the other side of the hole. Cover
the hole with enough sticks so that the prey must step on at least one of them to set off the snare. Tie one end of a piece
of cordage to a twitch-up or to a weight suspended over a tree limb. Bend the twitch-up or raise the suspended weight to determine
where You will tie a 5 centimeter or so long trigger. Form a noose with the other end of the cordage. Route and spread the
noose over the top of the sticks over the hole. Place the trigger stick against the horizontal sticks and route the cordage
behind the sticks so that the tension of the power source will hold it in place. Adjust the bottom horizontal stick so that
it will barely hold against the trigger. A the animal places its foot on a stick across the hole, the bottom horizontal stick
moves down, releasing the trigger and allowing the noose to catch the animal by the foot. Because of the disturbance on the
trail, an animal will be wary. You must therefore use channelization.
Figure 4 Deadfall
The figure 4 is a trigger used to drop a weight onto a prey and crush it (Figure 8-12). The type of weight used may vary,
but it should be heavy enough to kill or incapacitate the prey immediately. Construct the figure 4 using three notched sticks.
These notches hold the sticks together in a figure 4 pattern when under tension. Practice making this trigger before-hand;
it requires close tolerances and precise angles in its construction.
The Paiute deadfall is similar to the figure 4 but uses a piece of cordage and a catch stick (Figure 8-13). It has the
advantage of being easier to set than the figure 4. Tie one end of a piece of cordage to the lower end of the diagonal stick.
Tie the other end of the cordage to another stick about 5 centimeters long. This 5-centimeter stick is the catch stick. Bring
the cord halfway around the vertical stick with the catch stick at a 90-degree angle. Place the bait stick with one end against
the drop weight, or a peg driven into the ground, and the other against the catch stick. When a prey disturbs the bait stick,
it falls free, releasing the catch stick. As the diagonal stick flies up, the weight falls, crushing the prey.
A bow trap is one of the deadliest traps. It is dangerous to man as well as animals (Figure 8-14). To construct this trap,
build a bow and anchor it to the ground with pegs. Adjust the aiming point as you anchor the bow. Lash a toggle stick to the
trigger stick. Two upright sticks driven into the ground hold the trigger stick in place at a point where the toggle stick
will engage the pulled bow string. Place a catch stick between the toggle stick and a stake driven into the ground. Tie a
trip wire or cordage to the catch stick and route it around stakes and across the game trail where you tie it off (as in Figure
8-14). When the prey trips the trip wire, the bow looses an arrow into it. A notch in the bow serves to help aim the arrow.
This is a lethal trap. Approach it with caution and from the rear only!
Pig Spear Shaft
To construct the pig spear shaft, select a stout pole about 2.5 meters long (Figure 8-15). At the smaller end, firmly lash
several small stakes. Lash the large end tightly to a tree along the game trail. Tie a length of cordage to another tree across
the trail. Tie a sturdy, smooth stick to the other end of the cord. From the first tree, tie a trip wire or cord low to the
ground, stretch it across the trail, and tie it to a catch stick. Make a slip ring from vines or other suitable material.
Encircle the trip wire and the smooth stick with the slip ring. Emplace one end of another smooth stick within the slip ring
and its other end against the second tree. Pull the smaller end of the spear shaft across the trail and position it between
the short cord and the smooth stick. As the animal trips the trip wire, the catch stick pulls the slip ring off the smooth
sticks, releasing the spear shaft that springs across the trail and impales the prey against the tree.
This is a lethal trap. Approach it with caution and from the rear
A bottle trap is a simple trap for mice and voles (Figure 8-16). Dig a hole 30 to 45 centimeters deep that is wider at
the bottom than at the top. Make the top of the hole as small as possible. Place a piece of bark or wood over the hole with
small stones under it to hold it up 2.5 to 5 centimeters off the ground. Mice or voles will hide under the cover to escape
danger and fall into the hole. They cannot climb out because of the wall's backward slope. Use caution when checking this
trap; it is an excellent hiding place for snakes.
More Misc. Illustrations